A generator is the only backup option with genuinely unlimited runtime, but choosing and installing one correctly matters more than with a battery-based system, since a badly installed generator is a real safety hazard.

Petrol vs diesel

Petrol generators are cheaper upfront and lighter, suiting occasional or shorter-duration use. Diesel generators cost more initially but are more fuel-efficient and durable for regular or extended use, which is why most standby (permanently installed) generators are diesel.

Portable vs standby

A portable generator is manually connected when needed and stored otherwise – cheaper, but requires manual setup during every outage. A standby generator is permanently installed, wired into the property with an automatic changeover switch, and starts on its own within seconds of an outage – more expensive, but far more convenient for frequent use.

Why the changeover switch isn’t optional

A generator connected without a proper changeover switch can back-feed power into the grid, which is dangerous for utility workers and illegal. This has to be installed correctly by a registered electrical contractor as part of any generator installation, not treated as an afterthought.

Frequently asked questions

What size generator do I need?

Sizing depends on which circuits or appliances you want to run simultaneously – we calculate this based on your actual load, not a generic estimate.

Does a generator installation need a Certificate of Compliance?

Yes, the electrical connection and changeover switch installation both need to be certified.

Considering a generator for your home? Get a free quote.

For businesses, a UPS isn’t about comfort during load shedding – it’s about protecting equipment and data from the exact moment power cuts.

What needs UPS protection

Servers, networking equipment, point-of-sale systems, and anything mid-process when power fails (a server writing to disk, a POS mid-transaction) benefit most from UPS protection, since even a fraction of a second of interruption can cause data loss or corruption that a generator’s changeover delay can’t prevent.

UPS runtime vs UPS purpose

Most business UPS units aren’t sized for hours of runtime – they’re sized to bridge the gap until a generator kicks in, or to allow a clean, safe shutdown of equipment rather than an abrupt power loss.

Sizing for business equipment

Sizing depends on the total load of protected equipment and how long you need it protected for – a server room UPS is sized very differently from a single POS terminal’s UPS.

Frequently asked questions

Does a UPS replace the need for a generator?

No – they solve different problems. A UPS bridges the instant gap; a generator provides sustained power. Many businesses use both together.

How often does UPS battery need replacing?

Typically every 3-5 years depending on usage and battery type – we can test existing UPS battery health as part of a maintenance visit.

Protecting business-critical equipment? Get a quote.

Shopping for a load-shedding inverter without an electrical background is confusing – here’s what the specs actually mean for your day-to-day experience.

Sizing: watts and VA

An inverter’s power rating (in watts or VA) determines how much you can run simultaneously – undersizing means it trips or shuts down under load; oversizing wastes money upfront. Add up the wattage of everything you want covered (fridge, lights, wifi, TV) with some headroom for appliance start-up surges, particularly fridges and pumps.

Battery capacity and runtime

Battery capacity (in kWh) determines how long the system runs once mains power cuts – more capacity costs more but buys more hours per outage. Battery chemistry matters too: lithium batteries cost more upfront but last significantly longer and handle deeper discharge cycles better than older lead-acid technology.

Which circuits to back up

Most homes back up lights, wifi, TV point, and fridge rather than the whole house, which keeps system cost reasonable while covering what actually matters during a load shedding slot. Heavy loads like stoves, geysers and aircon are usually excluded from backup circuits since they’d require a much larger, costlier system.

Frequently asked questions

What size inverter do I need for a typical home?

It depends entirely on what you want backed up – we size based on your actual circuit list, not a generic recommendation, as part of a free assessment.

Is a bigger battery always better?

Not necessarily – it’s better to size the battery to your realistic outage duration and budget rather than over-buying capacity you rarely use.

Ready to size a system for your home? See our backup power service.

Cape Town storms and grid instability from load shedding switch-on/off cycles can both cause power surges – short, sharp spikes in voltage that damage sensitive electronics and, in worse cases, the wiring itself.

What a surge actually damages

Surges most commonly damage anything with sensitive electronics – TVs, computers, routers, appliance control boards – and repeated surges over time can degrade wiring insulation and DB board components even without an obvious single failure.

After a storm or suspected surge

Check for obviously affected appliances (won’t power on, behaving erratically), and if your DB board tripped and won’t reset cleanly, don’t keep forcing it – that’s a sign of a fault, not just a nuisance trip. If you smell burning anywhere, treat it as an emergency.

Preventing future surge damage

Surge protection devices installed at the DB board protect the whole property’s wiring and connected circuits, which plug-in surge strips at individual outlets can’t do on their own – the two work best together, not as alternatives.

Frequently asked questions

Does insurance cover surge damage?

Many home insurance policies do cover surge damage, though claims are smoother with a valid Certificate of Compliance on file – worth checking your specific policy.

Is whole-property surge protection worth it?

For homes with solar, inverters, or significant electronics, yes – it protects the wiring and every connected circuit, not just individual appliances.

Suspect surge or storm damage to your electrics? Get an inspection.

Calling an emergency electrician for the first time? Here’s what actually happens from the moment you call to the fault being fixed.

The call

Be ready to describe what you’re seeing – sparking, burning smell, no power, a tripped breaker that won’t reset – and roughly when it started. This helps us send the right person with the right parts, rather than diagnosing blind on arrival.

On-site diagnosis

We isolate the affected circuit safely, identify the fault, and explain what we’ve found and what it’ll cost to fix before starting any repair – no surprise invoices for emergency work.

What we can usually fix on the spot

Most emergency call-outs – tripped breakers, faulty outlets, damaged wiring sections, failed geyser elements – are resolved in a single visit. Larger issues, like a DB board that needs full replacement, may need parts ordered and a scheduled follow-up, with the immediate danger made safe in the meantime.

Frequently asked questions

Do you charge more for emergency call-outs?

Emergency and after-hours call-outs typically carry a call-out premium over a scheduled appointment, which we’re upfront about before dispatching.

What areas do you cover for emergencies?

We cover the Southern and Northern Suburbs, Atlantic Seaboard, City Bowl and West Coast – see our service areas for the full list.

Dealing with an electrical emergency? Call our emergency line.

Solar systems are low-maintenance compared to most home systems, but “low” isn’t “none” – a few simple checks protect your investment and catch problems before they cost you performance.

What actually needs attention

Panels lose efficiency as dust, pollen and bird droppings build up – a periodic clean, especially before summer’s peak generation months, matters more than most homeowners realise. Inverter displays or apps should be checked periodically for error codes or unusual output drops. Battery terminals and connections benefit from an annual visual inspection.

Signs your system needs professional attention

A sudden, unexplained drop in generation, an inverter that shows persistent error codes, or a battery that no longer holds charge the way it used to are all signs it’s time for a proper inspection rather than waiting it out.

Warranty and monitoring

Most panels carry 10-25 year performance warranties and inverters shorter warranties, typically 5-10 years – keep your installation paperwork, since warranty claims usually need proof of professional installation and commissioning date.

Frequently asked questions

How often should solar panels be cleaned?

Twice a year is reasonable for most Cape Town homes, more often if you’re near dusty roads or under trees.

What’s a normal drop in solar output over time?

A gradual 0.5-1% annual decline is normal panel degradation. A sudden, sharp drop is not, and points to a fault worth investigating.

Noticing reduced performance from your system? Get a free assessment.

“Solar” covers two genuinely different systems that solve different problems, and it’s a common point of confusion when homeowners start getting quotes.

Solar geysers heat water directly

A solar geyser uses roof-mounted collectors to heat water directly using the sun, with no electricity conversion involved. It reduces geyser-related electricity usage specifically – often the single biggest electricity cost in a home – but does nothing for lighting, plugs, or backup power during an outage.

Solar PV generates electricity

A solar photovoltaic (PV) system converts sunlight into electricity that can power anything in the home, and – paired with battery storage – can provide backup during load shedding. It’s a bigger investment than a solar geyser but far more flexible.

Which one makes sense for you?

If your main goal is cutting the cost of heating water, a solar geyser is the more targeted, lower-cost fix. If you want backup power during outages or want to offset your whole electricity bill, PV is what you actually need – the two aren’t interchangeable, and some homes benefit from both.

Frequently asked questions

Can I have both a solar geyser and solar PV?

Yes, and it’s a sensible combination – the geyser handles water heating efficiently while PV covers the rest of your electricity needs.

Does a solar geyser need an electrical compliance certificate?

The electrical connection for the geyser’s backup element does, though the solar heating component itself is primarily a plumbing installation.

Not sure which solar option suits your home? Get a free quote.

Commercial solar works differently from residential – higher daytime usage patterns actually suit solar well, but system design, compliance and financing all look different at business scale.

Why commercial solar often pays off faster

Most businesses use the bulk of their power during daylight hours, which is exactly when solar generates – meaning a well-sized commercial system can offset a larger share of usage than a typical home, where evening usage is higher.

Compliance for commercial installations

The same Certificate of Compliance and SSEG registration requirements apply, but commercial systems are usually larger and may need three-phase inverter configurations and additional load studies before installation.

Backup power for business continuity

For businesses where downtime has a real cost – retail, offices, light manufacturing – pairing solar with battery storage or a generator protects against load shedding disrupting trading hours, not just cutting the electricity bill.

Frequently asked questions

Do commercial solar systems need three-phase?

Larger commercial systems often do, depending on the building’s existing electrical supply – we assess this as part of the site survey.

How is commercial solar sized differently from residential?

Sizing is based on actual load profiles from utility bills and metering, not just roof space, since usage patterns and priorities differ from a household.

Looking into solar for your business? Get a free quote.

Panels get the attention, but the inverter is what actually makes a solar system usable – it converts the DC power your panels generate into the AC power your home runs on, and manages how that power flows between panels, battery and the grid.

String inverters vs hybrid inverters

A standard string inverter just converts panel output to usable power – fine for grid-tied systems with no battery. A hybrid inverter also manages a battery, deciding in real time whether to use solar, battery or grid power, and is what you need if load shedding backup is the goal.

Sizing an inverter correctly

An undersized inverter bottlenecks your panels’ output; an oversized one wastes money. Sizing depends on your panel array’s total output and your household’s peak simultaneous load – not just total daily usage – which is why a proper site assessment matters more than a generic package.

Common inverter problems

Nuisance shutdowns are usually a firmware or configuration issue rather than a hardware fault. Reduced output over time often points to a battery reaching end of life rather than the inverter itself. An inverter that won’t switch to battery during an outage is almost always a wiring or configuration fault, not a broken unit.

Frequently asked questions

How long do solar inverters last?

Most quality inverters are rated for 10 years, roughly half the lifespan of the panels themselves, so budget for one replacement over a system’s life.

Can I upgrade a string inverter to a hybrid later?

Usually yes, though it depends on the existing panel wiring and inverter brand – we can assess an existing system before quoting.

Considering a solar or backup power upgrade? See our solar installation service.

Your DB board (distribution board, or fuse box) is the control centre for your home’s electrics – and a board that keeps tripping is telling you something. Here’s how to read the basics and know when it’s more than a nuisance.

What’s actually in your DB board

Behind the door are a main switch, an earth leakage unit (also called an ELU or RCD, which protects against shock), and a row of circuit breakers, each protecting a specific circuit in the house – lights, plugs, stove, geyser, and so on. Modern boards are labelled per circuit; older boards often aren’t, which is one of the most common issues we fix.

Why breakers trip

A breaker trips when it detects more current than the circuit is rated for (overload), a short circuit, or – for the earth leakage unit specifically – current leaking to earth, often through a faulty appliance or damp-affected wiring. An occasional trip after running several high-draw appliances at once is usually a simple overload. A breaker that trips repeatedly with no clear trigger, or that’s warm to the touch, points to a fault that needs diagnosing properly rather than just resetting.

When to upgrade rather than repair

Boards installed before the 1990s often lack earth leakage protection entirely, use undersized breakers for modern appliance loads, or use fuse wire instead of circuit breakers – all of which fall short of current safety standards. If you’re planning a CoC, adding solar or an inverter, or simply tired of nuisance trips, a board upgrade is usually the more sensible fix than patching an outdated one repeatedly.

Frequently asked questions

Is it safe to keep resetting a breaker that trips?

Resetting it once to see if it holds is fine. If it trips again immediately or repeatedly, stop resetting it and have it inspected – repeatedly resetting a genuinely faulty breaker is how faults get worse.

How much does a DB board upgrade cost?

It depends on board size and condition – we assess the existing board and provide a fixed quote before starting any work.

Does a DB board upgrade require a CoC?

Yes, any DB board work requires a new Certificate of Compliance for the affected circuits.

Dealing with a tripping DB board or considering an upgrade? See our DB board service or get a free quote.